Although officially four separate towns, Ampenan, Mataram, Cakranegara and Sweta virtually merge to form a 'city' on Lombok. Mataram is the administrative capital; Cakranegara the commercial centre; Sweta is the transport terminal and site of the island's largest market; and Ampenan, once the central port, is the prime location for budget accommodation and food.
There are a few weaving factories in Mataram where you can see dyeing and weaving, and buy ikat cloth or handwoven songket sarongs. The hand-and-foot powered looms are amazing contraptions that look as if they haven't altered since the Majapahit dynasty. The Mayura Water Palace, on the main road through Cakranegara, is a pleasant retreat. It was built in 1744 and was part of the royal court of the Balinese kingdom on Lombok. The centrepiece is a large artificial lake with an open-sided pavilion in the centre, connected to the shoreline by a raised footpath. There are other shrines and fountains dotted around the surrounding park. Pura Meru, which is the largest Balinese temple on the island, is directly opposite the water palace.